At last the sleeping boot awakes; Permaculture in Italy at last is moving – some people have actually heard of it! I was tired of the lack of people interested in Permaculture courses and workshops, in the ignorant criticisms by people who had little idea of it, and no experience of having tried to put Permaculture principles into practise. Tired of hearing that it wouldn’t work in Italy, as if by some miracle Italy is another planet that just happens to occupy a space on Earth. As if Permaculture is some sort of exotic cultural virus seeking to invade from somewhere else. From Australia? Well of course it couldn’t work here, since Australia is on the other side of this planet. The upside down side, to make matters worse.
But wait a minute.
Even if Australia is far removed from Italy, the zones where Permaculture has most successfully been applied: to regenerate desert; to turn marginal farmland into highly productive land; to be the judged the most productive agricultural land in South Australia in fact, are precisely the areas specifically of ‘Meditarranean climate’, with remarkably similar qualities and problems as so much of Italy’s devastated agricultural land.
Do I hear protests of indignation at the suggestion that Italy is devastating its agricultural land? I would repeat the claim if I thought it necessary. Algal blooms in the water from chemical runoff; canyons of erosion on much of the hill-land; topsoil being lost in thousands of tons with every heavy rainfall; farmers struggling to maintain economic viability in spite of subsidies and working hours often double that of urban dwellers; and the beloved Mediterranean virtually void of significant fishing grounds, not only because of over-fishing, but also destruction by land-based sources including agriculture fouling the river estuaries where many species spawn.
The fact that Permaculture started in Australia is probably a reflection of the amount of ecological devastation that has been inflicted on that land in such a short time. This should not be read as a justification for ignoring the damage that has been done here in a much longer time. The reality is that we can not afford to ignore the continuing degradation of our environment, wherever and at what rate it is occurring. The environment is the physical basis of our existence, the ecosystems the foundation of our food sources as well as the myriad other functions. The economy too, since that would seem to be the totem most people pay the most respect to. It would seem wise to take good care of it
SOME PRINCIPLES COMMON TO DESIGNING SUSTAINABLE SYSTEMS
Care of earth – can’t hurt nature without hurting ourselves; there is still a need for attitudes to change, so that people identify with land and nature rather than viewing it only in exploitive terms.
Care for people – promote self-reliance, community responsiblity
Dispersal of anything surplus to our needs.
No element exists in isolation. Functional relationships exist between plants, animals and structures. These relationships can reduce or eliminate pollution and work by filling NEEDS of each element with YIELDS of others placed nearby. Finding right output to match right input from others.
unfilled needs = work, unused yields = pollution
eg; poultry and gardens
Scratching can destroy garden, or aerate it, and manure can fertilize it.
So, look at the needs and yields of each element, and place elements accordingly to achieve the most productive and harmonious relationships.
MULTIPLE FUNCTIONS FOR SINGLE ELEMENTS:
Each element is selected to perform at least 3 functions
eg; windbreak; wind protection, bee nectar, fodder, fuel, pest predator habitat, microclimate moderation
MULTIPLE ELEMENTS SUPPORTING SINGLE FUNCTIONS
All functions should be met in several ways, as an ‘insurance’ against single element failure.
eg; food production: – main plants grow predictably well, but grow other species for diversity, to spread resource and earning potential
ZONES AND SECTORS AND ELEVATION PLANNING
Zones – arranged according to energy requirements
eg; vegetable plants and stall-fed animals – close to house, but tree crops can be further away
Sectors – determined by energy source OFF site – channel positive, scatter negative energies
eg; sun, wind.
Elevation Planning – use gravity to reduce energy requirements.
eg; gravity feed water, poultry above garden
Looking at energy flows is important to achieve sustainablity
“If I need it, I plant it”.- fuel, food, fodder, fertilizer, tillage, pest control, weed control, fire control, nutrient recycling, energy conservation
Set up cycles; what can’t be recycled becomes a pollutant.
eg; fire as fertilizer – energy waste; same nutrient exists in unburnt organic material composted
energy recycled IN system, not lost OUT
AIMS FOR ENERGY
Energy input should decrease over time.
Energy input should decrease over distance
Energy given back for any method of producing food should be greater than energy used to produce it
– any system is designed as a series of complete connecting energy cycles.
eg; water is kept in soil through mulching and green manures instead of needing to be supplied from another source
Urine in sawdust for fertilizer – C and N balance;use of a renewable resource, and an appropriate fertilizer
Appropriate technology = that which can be appropriated
ie; take idea and adapt to local conditions
Same principles apply to energy for cooking, lighting, transport, heating
ideas universal, but implementation specific
Air Conditioning may be fine for high income apartment dweller, BUT not for farmer, who can grow it , using same principles. Hot air flows through cool medium, over a water pond; this is a good example of microclimate manipulation, for house comfort, to support a greater diversity of plants and animals, to reduce stress on people, plants and animals.
The natural process of land regeneration is: Herbs -> Pioneers -> Climax
Conventional agriculture often maintains systems at weed/herb stage by human/mechanical energy (tilling, weeding, spraying), fighting natural succession.
Substitute successive species, so there is immediate continuous food production: shrubs and trees are planted into annuals, then species adapted to low light are added replacing first herbs and pioneer species
Stack all available space/light levels, and time
Eg; intercropping green manure crops with cash crops, sowing at appropriate times to avoid competition.
Eg 2; timber as high short-mid-long term cash crop
edge is the most diverse area in any system (accumulates more light/nutrients -> greater diversity)
Design to fit with patterns in nature
eg; crenellated (rather than round or square) pond, increases potential stacking rate without extra volume; birds and fish feed at edge
maturing system increases diversity in space and time. It is NOT the number of different species that is important, but the complexity of functional relationships between elements: more complex and diverse -> more stable, more resistant against rampancy.
In nature, groups of plants and animals (guilds) occur consistently together because of beneficial rel’ps, SO in human systems (agricultural, urban, rural, social, etc), we try to form guilds by appropriate placement. Traditional systems did it, but modern has often ignored it.
energy input must be appropriate to conditions specific to the time, resources available, market accessibility.
too big, or too small can both be problems
Show me a natural or human system which is sustainable in the long-term, and these principles will exist invariably.
If anyone can tell me why any of these principles are not totally practical (ie; not simply theoretical), or not applicable to Italy, please contact me that I may be enlightened by such argument.
Worms are amazing! All we need to do, is give them what they need! Then they do the rest. Simple as that. So,
What do they need, or not need?
Why pollute the ground and water systems; why waste such a wonderful resource when it can so easily be ‘treated’ to produce a wonderful rich fertiliser?
If you have any doubts about using it on your vegetable gardens – the Chinese have used if for thousands of years (see Farmers of Forty Centuries by FH King, a classic) directly on their gardens without making a great impact on reducing their population through it – then just use if for the fruit trees. For the vegetable garden anyway, you just make a great worm compost system and then you have the best of both worlds. I’ve done another entry here titled WORM COMPOSTING
Again, if you’ve doubts, and in any case to be safe with it, try to site your shit composting and the garden separately, or at least with the shit below the garden rather than the other way round. Gravity’s good and predictable in that way. Principle: Relative Location.
Here’s a design that works a treat: a friend on the north coast of New South Wales in Australia (sub-tropical) worked for years to get the specifications just right. All you ever shovel out is sweet dark compost. Worms of course can be added too, and a urine separator is always worthwhile. No waiting at all as with the double-bin system, so it takes less space too.
With thanks to Lee Davidson of The Channon, northern NSW, Australia
After almost two years work in a very different field, we are finally back on the Permaculture track, and more enthusiastic than ever. But why the pause in the first place?
I’d been living as most of us do; as if I was immortal. Like all of us, I was not. Far from it. Two years ago I discovered that I had significant liver cancer. It was made clear to me that without rapid surgical intervention, my chances of survival for more than months was very remote.
Understand aquaculture efficiency
Be able to design basic aquaculture system, understanding
principles for spp selection, stocking needs, nutrient req’mts
Same PC principles apply as for other aspects of design
high oxygen is needed – SO greatest surface area is best; productivity of an aquaculture system is related to area rather than volume, since below two metres, very fish live because:
- less oxygen;
- less light
- less nutrient except in deposited soil and organic material
ie; can be mostly shallow, with deep spots for fish to escape in heat
An aquaculture pond can act as nutrient trap at bottom of system
Actually lose land, BUT Yield 4-20 times land system, because:
1 great diversity – wet soil trees on edge; permanent water levels critical; swamp plants ; emergents (bullrush); floating plants (water hyacinth); submergent plants
ii fish have greatest food-flesh ratio
iii temperature more consistent than surrounding land
Also: – aquatic env’mt can store more solar radiation than grasslands – convert this energy to fish flesh very efficient high protein.
– fastest growing landuse; best integrated with land systems – can yield between 250-1150kg protein/hectare
– water storage
– pest predator habitat – eg; frogs against mozzies
– microclimate and edge
– firebreak and control
SO,try to get 15% of land surface under water, at least during wet season!!!
Water from aquaculture pond is nutrient-rich, so any water used to irrigate plants is super-charged with a ‘soup’ of many nutrients valuable to plants. Win-win!
Why so efficient?
– cold-blooded , so don’t use up energy controlling body temp.
– fish weight supported by water, so more food energy for growth
– can be grown on waste, such as animal residues
– fish farming can be carried out on marginal land, making it productive
- ponds can add another use to existing facilities, such as irrigation dams;
- since aquaculture functions best in slightly alkaline water (7-9), if there is not a regular through-flow of water (in the case of a mostly rain-fed pond for example) acidity may increase especially if animals such as ducks or pigs are used to add fertility to the water as a symbiotic animal-fish system. This can reduce the productivity of the pond through high pH and over nutrification which deprives the water of oxygen.
- In such cases, the pond can be occasionally drained, planted with green manure which absorbs the high-nutrient level of the pond soil, and this can be used as fertilizer, complementing agriculture and increasing overall food prod’n
YIELDS; in terms of protein 4.05ha water > product than 80.9ha grazing
- nutrient water from fish and animals very rich (see above for problems associated with acidity; it has excellent pH level – best used for tree crops as may be too much N for vegetables
The city of Kalkutta in India produces over 20,000kg of fish PER DAY from its aquaculture. Not to mention the amount of other food produced. The system works – theoretically at least – on a series of lakes, each one functioning to treat the pollutants, reducing it to the point where it is healthy enough for edible fish. The first lakes produce biomass which grows biomass for reforestation, while extracting the heaviest pollutants. The next ones also produce vast amounts of biomass, plus fish and other aquatic species are introduced; this process continues, each system extracting more pollutants until the point that fishes which can only live in relatively clean water, survive. Thereafter productive edible aquaculture systems provide the 20,000 kg/day of edible fish plus aquatic edible plants. It’s all win from a pollution source to an abundance of many dimensions.
Factors in Setting up aquaculture ponds
* pH 7-9. Anything under 6.5 won’t be very productive. pH 7.5-8.0 is optimum, but will change at different times of year
- depth at least 2m in middle so fish can escape from heat. >2m is not valuable from a harvest perspective. Ideal temp 18-25degC.
* clear water. Hold large silver coin 450mm under water; if clearly seen, clear enough for fish. Turbidity reduces sun’s penetration and thus algal growth. Small amount of obscurity can inhibit predators. Gypsum will clear muddiness and help balance pH. 560kg/ha added in small quantities is effective in clearing murkiness
* available food required – grow your own food. New dam can be inocculated by taking a bucket of water from old dam to breed up plants and micro-organisms. Algal feeders need heavy manuring and algae needs sun. Grass eaters need water plants along the edges. Taro is an excellent feed with weeds in between. Mulch edge of new dam immediately to encourage edge plants and reduce erosion and run-off. if within 30deg of the Equator, mallee prawn does well. Suspend nets vertically in water to grow algae.
– some as runoff from agricultural land
– from leaves, other deitrus, insects falling from fruit & veg.
- manure from water birds and fish
- manure, scraps added directly; animals can be penned over pond
- pigeon coop standing in pond against fox attack
- floating chicken house;
- pig or cow house flowing into fish pond
– nutrient levels must be monitored, balanced by extra fish etc
– feeding sludge from bio-gas unit
– wild animals – bat nesting-box with rungs and bat shit in first
– bottom sludge should be slightly basic, but often acidic from manure etc – to correct, add lime , or periodically drain and grow high nutrient crop, leaving residue as nutrients in bottom of pond, and refill
* existing vegetation must be assisted to attract insects or drop feed into the dam. It also provides an immediate habitat for micro-organisms.
* size, number of fish and carrying capacity is related to surface area, NOT to depth of water or total volume. The ratio is of Size of Surface: Edge length.
- water level stability and water loss; top up if required. Oxygen levels are one of the most important factors. A reticulation system (running water, esp from height) or flow forms can help.
What are the main factors affecting your yields? Can you suggest ways to improve on this? Brainstorm.
Factors affecting yield
* Pond shape and shape
- longer the edge and greater the shallow area, more food available ; ie; crennelated edge, NOT straight sides or circular
Note also that the catchment area is vegetated fully apart from the small bare ground in foreground. Swales leading around the contour above the dam would greatly add to the catchment area if necessary
- different levels are important to provide range of habitats; large fish naturally move to deeper water and deep water ensures region of lower temps during summer months. Shallow water can carry weed growth which offers protection to small fish, and is source of large quantities of food, providing habitat for water fowl, and producing food crops such as water chestnuts, taro, and arrowhead ie; polyculture.
In case of lake losing water through evaporation or leakage, be sure to have a deep section lined with an impermeable membrane to hold water.
- allows for proper management practices, cleaning of the pond, removal of sludge for use as fertilizer, and complete harvesting of the fish if this is reqruired.* Screen
– at overflow essential to allow for drainage. Bottom slopes to outlet
– are should be managed in complementary ways, should be grassed to reduce muddiness of water, no sprays to be used and stock should be excluded.
– need to be provided for fish – tyres, terra-cotta pipes
* Pond Bottom
– very important in biology of the body of water; a good bottom is able to quickly recycle nutrients and make them available – if poor, bottom decay is slow. Gravel, clay and sand bottoms can be improved by the addition of organic matter such as stable manure, sewerage sludge or by sowing a green manure crop before filling dam with water.
Criteria for selection of plant and animal species
* Pond Size and shape– There is surface area, edge and depth which is suitable for certain species and affects their stocking rate amd available food supply.
– need to consider water temp, and max/min temps and overall geographic areas eg; inland, coast, mountains.
* Available Sunlight
– plant large species on the north (Nth hem) side of dam, since large trees on the south will obscure winter sunlight when it can be most important
– summer temp, wind speed & rainfall will interact. Water levels may need to be topped up
* Environmental Impact
– whether species can escape and become pests and also the interactions between species and symbiosis. Something needs to be known of the food chains in the water, and their inter-relationships. The more suited to their new habitats, the greater the growth rate.
– summer breezes will re-oxygenate the water – appropriate wind machines can be used to oxygenate water also. Perhaps plant wind funnels
* Water Quality
– amount of sediment, watershed and pollution(DDT 100 years in mud) – agricultural runoff -> increased weed growth and algal blooms
– 30m forest on catchment
* Before Stocking
– new dam should be allowed at least 3 months to settle and to allow establishment of a good food supply
Fish Stocking Rates
DO NOT stock low; the fish grow very big and are hard to catch. With very high stocking rates, the fish stay small
100 fish/surface acre without extra feeding
feed via pond fertilization – manures
When stocking ensure that there are no other fish, or eels. Eels can be trapped from empty dams by shaking in Derris Dust which asphyxiates them. After two weeks, the effects of the Derris Dust is gone.
Some fish like to breed under things or on floating rafts, logs and clay pipes
Shrimps like to hide in little things. They will dig holes in dam walls. They love living in beer cans (non-rust aluminium) suspended from a raft. Shrimps will eat worms. Big frogs eat prawns.
Freshwater mussels; can be grown on ropes and can filter 200 gallons of water per day (cleansing like kidneys). They also deposit phosphate.
Goldfish eat mosquitoes.
Different fish occupy different depths of water.
- Insectivorous fish occupy the surface water
- Herbivorous fish occupy the pond edges where there are grasses and other edge aquatic plants. Chinese say: “if you feed one grass carp well, you feed three other fish”.
- Fish which eat predominantly faeces occupy a medium depth
- Mud dwellers extract nutrient from deposited soil (eg; catfish – flesh tends to be ‘gritty’.
- So, ponds can be divided with suspended nets at appropriate depths to separate predator fish from others. Rafts with suspended netting can also be installed. Predator fish only get the little fish that swim by. Fish can also be separated completely in cages:
- In this way, many different species can occupy the same pond any problems arising of carnivorous fish over-eating other species and dominating.
- In marshes and wetlands make sinks to grow fish and prawns. This can also be done in mangroves.
Can have a main pond with small ponds around it.
Management of Fish
* Harvest smaller/medium sized fish (large for breeding
* Use traps,nets or line to catch fish
Lack of Oxygen occurs in hot weather,may occur after rain when organic matter such as animal manures, vegetable matter has been washed into dam. Decomposition of OM uses up oxygen. Sign of oxygen deficiency are dead fish or fish coming to surface gasping for air. Oxygen may be replaced by circulating water or, pumping it up and spraying back onto surface of water. IT CAN BE AVOIDED BY MAINTAINING A BETTER BALANCE IN THE FIRST PLACE.
A windmill – paddle floating on dam.
Air rippling on water will work.
Ducks swimming on the water.
Predators – Cormorants. Fish are quick to learn about safe retreats, not metal pipes or chicken wire as they release chemicals into the water. Abundance of forage fish or crustaceans (shrimps, goldfish) will ease predation pressures on dam fish.
Undesirable Fish – eels are problem (eat fingerlings -> reduce chances of establishing fish in dams). Removed using lights and baits of fresh meat.
Weeds – water hyacinth, but very good food supplement for cattle and pigs
– roots provide habitat for organisms eaten by fish etc
– good compost, mulch
– stems for basket weaving
* Never introduce water weeds unless sure of identity and characteristics
THE ESSENCE OF AQUATIC POLYCULTURE – AQUACULTURE
Each species of fish feeds on specific micro-organisms
Each species can’t use all available food eg; edge species (eg;mulberry) provides fruit, eaten in water by fish, on land by ducks, ducks manure the water, utilized as food by fish/ micro-organisms which feed fish; mulberry also feeds insects drop in water and eaten by fish, as is frass (excrement or other refuse of boring lavae). Leaves which fall in water are also eaten, especially by shrimp.
When food is not fully utilized, imbalances can develop with a drop in oxygen levels.
Good farm combinations are:
Fish and Pigs, Ducks, Domestic Waste, Agricultural Waste eg; rice, Industrial Waste eg; abattoirs, sugarbeet processing, Worm Farming
Fish wastes when there is only one species, can build to levels that foul water and inhibit growth
Limits overcome by stocking several species – match diff levels of food
When up to 6 spp fish, and waterfowl, are stocked, the predators of fish take no more than 15% of fish
Herbiverous fish perform a special function; Chinese say: “if you feed one grass carp well, you feed three other fish”. Grass carp consume massive quantities of partially digested materials, which directly feed bottom-feeding fish ie; common carp, and stimulate production in other parts of the food web. Grass carp can grow as much as 3-4kg/annum. (The Chinese use Mulberries particularly since they feed duck and fish on fruit and the leaves feed shrimp and grass carp).
Production can be increased three times with pig manure/sun/carp. Then water plants growth increased with nutrients from increased fish stocking & growth.
A SUCCESSFUL POLYCULTURE HAS A MIXTURE OF FISH, CRAYFISH, PLANTS, MOLLUSCS, WATER FOWL AND EDGE PLANTS
SEEPAGE areas can be used for mints, bamboo, and trees such as willows, pecans and poplars
There needs to be gradual shelving from ‘dry’ land to 1.2m
Taro->Chinese waterchestnut->Duck potato->Bullrush->Waterlily->Lotus->Indian Chesnut Sagitarria Cumbungi
– perennials and non-cultivated spp help consolidate and stabilize edge, and support insects -> pond and support livestock -> pond manure
– large evergreen to north, deciduous to south
– emergent plants at edge attract insects – add to pond floor: bananas, papaya, pineapple, mango, lychee, feijoa, blueberries, mulberries(add silkworms too), pecans, hazelnuts
Shrubs and Herbs: comfrey, sweet potato, lavenders, lemongrass, fragrant plants, millet, passionfruit, kiwifruit, tea tree
chinese water chestnut (Eleocharis)} 1sq.m. from 1 corm (8-9mths growth high pH – divide when harvesting
indian water chestnut (Trapa) } diff spp.
taro – Colocasia (shallow water or moist soil – good understorey; corm is carbohydrate, also young leaves and stems – steamed, well cooked to destroy calcium oxynate crystals, fermented into poi
kangong – water spinach (Ipomea) convulvulous, leaves very nutritious, and good livestock feed
bullrushes – whole plant is edible; roots eaten like potato
water cress Rorippa aquatica (daily picked with flow)
lotus (water lilies – roots, stems in salad, seeds like popcorn; grows to depth of 2.5m. Embed in ball of soft clay with shot poking out; drop in water.
arrowhead – leaves or root (arrowroot) – ground root to paste, dry for powder as thickener
Fodder grasses: comfrey, kikuyu, wandering jew, sugar cane
Fibre plants: bamboo, papyrus, NZ flax
Island vegetation: chose for controlling rampancy and as nests for birds
cane grass, pampas grass
* Keep plan and diary recording all tree/vegetation info – source, variety, neighbours etc
* Remember: after a few years, dam can be drained and terraces of sleepers etc put in place – excellent planting area for almost any crops
POLYCULTURE: combination of appropriate plant, water and fish spp for max yield, min space –
top – herbivores feed on algae
bottom – dwellers on mud
middle level – fish
Different order of ponds
different size ponds – different products
1. Tyre Pond – good in Zone 1
HOW? 1. Large tractor tyre (NOT radial steel mesh!), with one side-wall cut out, possibly with a serrated edge kitchen knife (hard work!), keeping blade wet, and exerting cutting pressure as you pull up. For radial tyre, use angle grinder with blade, or by drilling holes and cutting with bolt cutters. NB: Tyre not necessary!
2. Dig hole to depth required, slightly larger than tyre diameter. Spread 3cm layer of sand.
3. Lay large sheet of heavy duty plastic – enough for double layer wrapped generously around bottom and sides of tyre, and to line inside. Place tyre on top and plastic wrap. Spread 5cm layer of sand on bottom.
- Soil and composted material in tyre rim for deep water plants, with shallower ones in pots, placed on bricks to required level. Fill slowly
waterlily, taro, water chestnut (Guppies, goldfish against mozzies) Urban Situations
– water tubs, tyreponds, baths
– low maintenance, don’t need watering, weeding or mulching. Attracts birds , raises humidity around pond, good for subtropical plants such as papaya, provides habitat for insect predators (frogs,lizards). Plants are very ornamental.
Siting – needs full sun and low point looks more natural
Requirements – scavengers help establish natural balance, fish and water snails clean up rotting vegetation and algae, goldfish eat mosquito larvae and other insects. Plants and fish prefer mature water so do not empty pond unnecessarily and top up gradually.
Fertilizer – can be small amounts of compost or manure. Water lilies serve practical function by keeping oxygen in water by trapping it under lilypads.
Planting – containers are advantageous because water is clearer, it allows for easy harvesting of plants, easy repotting and division. The pond is easily cleaned. Use a clayey soil with compost or well rotted manure.
2. 4-5m across
– greater range of aquatic plants – eg; with steps
– fresh water prawns
– weed-eating fish (carp, catfish)
– household scraps, compost, manure
- some microclimate effect
3. 5-8m across
– all above, greater variety of fish (polyculture)
4. 1/4 acre
– semi commercial – commercial
– prawns/fish with ducks (feed ducks, manure feeds fish)
– ducks/fish forage themselves, ducks on plants, and emerging vegetation
– freshwater mussels
– need to hold in freshwater > 2hours to clean mud
– good filter system
– excrete phosphates into mud (periodic fertilizer)
– shells can be ground for liming pond, or fed to poultry as Calcium supplement
– in smaller pond, can cause pollution (by dying)
– dragon flies are indicator of good water health
5. Large ponds
– eel (world shortage) and fish rearing – hold eels from muddy ponds for 3 days before harvesting (bones high Calcium source)
NB: eels if stocked too high can destroy fish AND can cross country to get to stocked pond
SO may be better to raise in completely separated tanks, netted against escape!
– prawns farming (10lbs prawns cf. 1lb fish)
– eat leaves
– don’t like overcrowding – like to 2m depth
– need specific water temp (16-25deg) over 32deg will kill BUT can hibernate
BUT shrimps can cause dam leaks with rocky dam wall
AND eels eat ducks
yabbies like cloudy water’ (so ducks good)
many predators (birds, snakes etc) so need refuges
– sensitive to water pollution
6. Very large ponds
– edge vegetation for mulch
- fish and eels and prawns as wild harvest
Where to place pond(s)?
- Depends on where the water source is;
- relatively low maintenance after initial setting-up
- can be multi-functional depending on size (fish/irrigation/recreation/micro-climate influence)
- depends on size and shape of land
- high on the land offers greater potential for gravity-feed irrigation to gardens, fruiting trees, field crops when necessary
- low on land is last opportunity to trap and store soil and nutrients before it otherwise would flow out of the land.
Best is series of ponds – good for building up of nutrient – 4-7% increase in protein from pond compared with stream water
different system each pond (see example above of Kalkutta system for treating polluted water), but an suggestion is:
1st – reeds, ducks, geese (manure fertilizes water, but too high for fish)
nutrients trapped in plants – people, green mulch, fish protein
Azolla (water weed) – floating water fermentation – nitrogen fertilizer overflows to Pond 2
– high protein content – food and green manure, biogas digester, dried and stored as food
Duck weed doesn’t fert nitrogen, high biomass (40tonnes/ha/yr)
1st overflows to 2nd pond
polyculture of plant-eating fish – duckweed and azolla controlled by feeding
duck, geese, mussels, freshwater clams
2nd overflows to 3rd
polyculture including carniverous fish
Each pond should have capacity drain it empty, either by syphon system with pipe, or lock-pipe system.
If it can’t be topped up, then have floating raft and place plants in it. If raft is too high, can be weighed down with baskets of water lilies. Just add soil until raft floats at desired level, OR in case of raft with barrel flotation support, water can be added or subtracted to appropriate level for plants grown in raft. (See Diagrams Dam Construction Profile, and Drainage Pipe through Dam Wall, and Raft Island)
use sweet flavours to attract fruit flies, use honey and sugar 60% of fish food is insects. Can use a brick boiled in liver to attract blowfly family.
ADD one thing at a time to water, and observe what happens.
water-logged and shallow ponds /temp water
– edge between water and land systems
– very diverse 2-3000 useful marsh spp
– imp. as wildlife
– birds for insect control
– flood storage areas – absorb excess runoff, slowly release
– very important bee forage source
– used in treatment of human and industrial waste
– secondary effluent -> swamps -> nutrients and filter
– heavy metal (lead, mercury) temporarily trapped
– production of mulch and fertilizer
– high moisture content
– constant temp and high nutrients -> huge bio-mass
– equiv to seaweed as fertilizer
– grazing and stockfood (pigs, geese cattle)
– levels of limiting amino acid are lower though protein as high
– higher in calcium, potassium, magnesium, than land
– geese grazing with berry growing
– pigs originally forest and marshland foragers
– cattle forage during dry times, provided mud-pugging isn’t serious
Coppicing spp close planted (0.5m sq)
If land is small, and there is a large percentage of swamplands, this can be transformed into a chinampa system, in which the swampy land is trenched, with the material resulting from the deepening placed between each trench to form a mound which can be planted.
Aquaponics see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aquaponics
Aquaponics is another dimension of aquaculture especially appropriate for small-scale fish raising, with the added benefit of creating a closed-loop of nutrient cycle, with the fish providing the nutrient (through their faeces) for vegetable cultivation.
Of course a far more aesthetically pleasing system can be put together if space is not so important, but this is certainly a great example of stacking in practise!
Aquaponics is a valuable consideration as a recycling potential. These are small and large scale systems, in salt and in fresh water. They can be very simple, such as in the rice-fish systems of South East Asia, or more sophisticated and available as complete systems, at a price of course. Broadly speaking they consist of a series of components in which the water is filtered at various levels and recycled.
How it works (in brief):
- Fish are raised in a tank using a feed of commercial fish food (or by experimenting with various combinations of, for example, flaked grain and manure).
- The over flow of the fish tank (this water is highly enriched by fish faeces) flows through a filter removing solids unusable by plants;
- the ammonium in the faeces may be converted to nitrates by nitrification bacteria in this filter, before it;
- Flows into a tank or tanks in which a medium of substrate (sand, gravel, if not actually soil) supports the plants to be grown;
- the water at the bottom of the system is filtered again and pumped back to the fish tanks.
Since water is a significant factor, this both recycles the precious water, AND reduces water needed to grow the same vegetables outside in the soil. Not a bad result of win-wins, particularly in such a situation of water limitations.
Rearing tank: the tanks for raising and feeding the fish;
- Settling basin: a unit for catching uneaten food and detached biofilms, and for settling out fine particulates;
- Biofilter: a place where the nitrification bacteria can grow and convert ammonia into nitrates, which are usable by the plants;
Hydroponics subsystem: the portion of the system where plants are grown by absorbing excess nutrients from the water;
- Sump: the lowest point in the system where the water flows to and from which it is pumped back to the rearing tanks.
DESIGNING FOR DISASTER
An aspect of good Permaculture design that must always be incorporated into our landuse is designing for disasters. Failure to design for extremes may lead to losing all our good work in one unconsidered event: fire, flood, drought, wind, storms, cold, heat. We can well say that Permaculture Design is Designing for Extremes since, no matter how ‘good’ our design may be for ‘normal’ conditions, it is how well it adapts to extremely strong, potential disasters that ultimately determines its sustainability and resilience. Of course Permaculture is much more than such a single theme, but failing to consider this one could put to waste all the other good work you have done, in one disastrous event.
It is not good enough to plan for averages. ‘Averages’ are becoming less and less ‘average’ as climate change effects increase. There are plenty of different considerations to be made as we enter the process of designing land. Disaster is one of them, and we must question the nature of any disaster possibilities.
Analysis of a Disaster
Design can’t be effective unless the designer has knowledge of the cause and conditions of any potential disasters. Specifically, can we avoid the impact of those disasters through good design? Start by asking these following questions:
* Cause of disaster – is it natural or man-made? Can we begin to reverse the cause?
* Frequency – how often does it occur? If it is once in 10,000 years, probably we need not put too much consideration into it. However, if it is likely to occur every few years – even every few decades – then we certainly should take it seriously.
* Duration – short or long-term?
* Speed of Onset – what is the warning period?
* Scope of Impact – is it concentrated or spread over a large area?
* Destructive Potential? – this can vary enormously.
* Predictability – does it follow a pattern? Seasonal, direction of source of disaster (wind, slope, situation/material supporting or limiting its impact).
* Controllability – are people helpless?
Fire, flood, cyclone, earthquake, tsunami, drought, landslide, famine, nuclear accident, epidemic, climate change, land degradation; all can be taken into account using these criteria.
Design…..General strategies to minimise the impact of disaster.
- Start with structure – apply permaculture principles of reducing risk.
Create autonomous housing;
have a small supplies of seed, store plants and water away from likely centre of disaster.
Cave, underground room (against fire, nuclear or other pollution disaster, small mud house,
- If practical, ensure escape routes (creeks, fire trails, green belts)
- Small emergency garden away from disaster centre – perhaps just hardy food spp
- Windbreaks or berms to protect home and garden, or to change the direction (of fire, flood, hurricane, cyclone).
- Swales and berms to enhance water holding capabilities
- Ponds to enhance water holding capabilities
- A good pitched roof to shed snow (if you live in a cold/temperate climate) and rain.
- The use of heavy materials in construction such as mud/concrete/stone formed walls and metal roofs to reduce damage from wind; wood against earthquake; bamboo flexible and easily replaceable.
- Certain species of trees such as mulberries, oaks, willows, poplars, and maples are fire resistant. These can be planted densely with succulent groundcovers and shrubs to form a dense firebreak.
- Refuge island if you have a large dam
Types of Disaster
- ‘Insure’ against these by creating and being involved in community-building and maintaining. Choose your company; support people; be generous and fearless.
- Create LETS (Local Energy Trading System)system or similar
- Work together; work co-ops build more than houses and gardens; they build friendships and community.
A. Flood, Cyclone, Drought
– often can anticipate by weather statistics
eg; 1:100yr flood contour must have all structures above it. Allow for Greenhouse Effect. Have emergency garden out of flood reach.
Create solid berm (stone, earth very heavily planted with deep-rooted trees and shrubs
Plant trees and shrubs heavily beside all river banks to reduce energy of the floods, and encourage water to remain in river bed (if river is not limited to its course, river bed gradually silts up, spreading the flood waters instead of digging the river bed deeper). Regrass catchment areas to reduce silting up, and hence flooding
– do not enter floodwater on foot; use car, boats, or wait to be evacuated. Climb to roof
– don’t drink floodwater – often contaminated by sewage; carry bottles of bottled water
– don’t panic!
these generally arrive from specific, predictable direction, and are anticipated by modern weather-forecasting, so we can design with a good degree of advanced information.
- houses need to be built with cyclone bolts, and as close to ground as possible, even underground. Or, use 45deg roof angle; cut stud into brace, and have it high pitched.
- Trees as windbreaks must be flexible – classically palms, bamboos, casuarinas, which absorb a lot of the force. Small-leafed and multi-stemmed shrubs with good root systems are priority plants
- Remain in shelter during and after passing of the ‘eye’. Every cyclone is dangerous, and must be treated as a real threat.
- Have a ‘famine’ garden in very sheltered area (eg; protected by wind arc of earth or vegetation to deflect wind)
Drought: will increase as climate change increases to bring more extreme conditions of wet/dry patterns
- normal part of many climates; never lose by greed or carelessness, supplies of seed or animals.
- Water must be kept clean and not fouled.
- All water recycled, preferably several times over (kitchen/bath water to toilet/plants
- all plants to be heavily mulched
- watering to be done under mulch layer
- no sprinkler watering; concentrate water with drip systems
- Animals: If drought is part of normal weather cycle, then pastures and feed can be ‘saved’, as silage. Animals need to be on a salt lick (urea?) to facilitate digestion of dry feed.
- 17-30 can be fed on 1ha permanent of cut and feed forage; free-range animals take 1-5ha in ave conditions (40-60 in desert and droughts). 2-4 draught and milkers average, so 6-8 farmers
– shade for 15-30 animals. Floor should have mulch of fronds and hard straw from sugar cane, Pennisetum grasses, or palms
– up to 1ha of perrenial forage, cut daily and fed as one third to one half of the ration. Species include Honey locust, Acacia, arrowroot (Canna), comfrey and Pennisetum
– careful groundplan of multiple cross slope swales to catch and infiltrate run-off water in rains – this is critical
– herd animals are better to be grazed close for a short, intensive time, then moved closely; stall fed and controlled movements preserve land for higher fodder productivity
– all adjoining fields edged and wind-breaked with same spp, planted at 20-30m intervals in rows through all other crop, on bunds, along swales and ditches
– basic survival ha can be cut and managed in good years, but in drought all essential livestock penned in or near forage system for survival feeding. As no crops in drought, families tend on rotation
In drought, cattle can be fed on chopped dry stalk, small branches, straw, crushed cane, cardboard/paper provided they have access to lick of 10%(molases with urea added – 50-50). (eg; petrol drum in half-drum bath of molasses-urea. It is molasses-urea plus high cellulose cheap bulk food that enables cattle to breakdown some of the cellulose in wood and straw. Rest is provided from perennial forages, cut in succession and carried to pen; all manure and bedding is carried back to forage fields as mulch, preferably deposited in swales – mulch develops cool humus soils with good water capacity over time, and the forage plants thrive on this humus.
Dangers on range following rains:
-woody and ephemerals in drylands may concentrate toxic substances in new growth after rains, to protect against grazing for 4-6weeks -nitrates, oxalic acids, cyandes, alkaloids
SO, cattle shouldn’t be released to range, esp on single sp stand. Mature leaf generally not toxic; wide range of foods, some cut forage, mature leaf from trees. Same after browsing and burning
B. Nuclear ‘Accident’/Chemical Pollution
Who is going to live beyond such an event, and how?
- Protected water sources will be essential
- protected emergency garden also; a greenhouse becomes even more important as a architectural design component of the house.
- Recycling within the house structure of all nutrients
- Earthship design system of autonomous housing including indoor food production. Aquaponics important.
- Land Degradation/Famine
This of course is a longer term theme; usually the degradation (and such consequences as starvation and malnutrition) is slow moving and evolves over a longer time.
Dramatic exceptions to this are volcanoes (the flow of lava and lahar ash which totally blanket existing land), and tsunamis. The impact of both these can be significantly reduced though, be creating significant earth arc-berms in the sector from which such potential catastrophes would arrive (ocean-side for tsunamis; volcanic mountain-side for volcanoes) so that the arrival of lava/ash/wave would be greatly diverted away from the habitation or cropland. Of course this must be designed so that the reduction in damage risk to one land area does not become greater damage to the neighbouring or down-slope land!
Follow Permaculture strategies on water management, earthworks and vegetation strategies
Small areas can be made fire-safe. Non-oily spp, low litter, earth berms, close openings under house/eaves.
Principles for house protection against fire:
- Create defendable space
- Remove flammable objects from around the house
- Break up fuel continuity
- Carefully select, locate and maintain trees and shrubs
Factors in Fire Risk
a. Fuel – doubling of floor fuel – quadrupling of fire intensity. Pine needles burn faster than thicker matter
b. Mulches – dry mulches of annual grass, cereal crops, pasture burn very fast. Fibrous barks burn more than smooth bark
- Dry Fuel and Winds – increase risk of fire
d Topography – fire moves faster uphill
Design in Fire Control
1. Zone 1 garden around house, damp mulches, green mulches, irrigated, no open eaves, underhouse gaps to start fire.
2. Water – storage in irrigation/aquaculture ponds and tanks about the house. Plug and fill gutters, basin and baths. Have hoses inside.
3. Roads/Paths – leading away from principal direction fires come. Keep clear.
4. Orchards – excellent fire breaks, but watch citrus for oil
5. Animal yards – doors open to cool area
6. Radiant heat barriers – stone walls, mud walls, earthbanks, concrete, bricks, thick low hedges, white walls, fly screens
- Fire resistent plants – eucalypts regenerate BUT volatile oils explode, add to fire heat.
No Proteacea, Myrtaceae, Rutaceae (all oil-rich species) in fire sector or near house
BUT fire-retardant – burn poorly, slow fire – wattles, succulent species (wandering jew), coprosma
8. Fire shelter – place where people can escape to if house burns -build of rock, mud, or inside hill, and whitewash it.